Full-length Feature: Tracing the Mediterranean (Part 4) – Lost in Translation (Part 2 of 2)

Romanticising about Rome is not the same as loving it. That’s something I wanted to clarify, given how I have waxed lyrical about the Eternal City in my previous post.
Beautiful though it may be, there were times I felt a little lost in translation. Prior to visiting Rome, I have been warned by many friends and family about pick-pocketing and bag-snatchers. I personally witnessed at close proximity a Roma (gypsy) woman try to put an arm around a girl (who’s probably no older than 20) while with her other hand, attempt to reach into her handbag. And this incident took place a few steps from the grandiose Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. DSC00795_blogDSC00911_blogThe irony of it all really, when you take into account that to get into the church, you would have to pass through security and bag-check. Here, a few steps behind the church, petty crime like stealing and pick-pocketing go on, unchecked.DSC00723_blog
DSC00377_blogI also notice the tight security at major attractions like the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums and the aforementioned church. That’s the new norm, unfortunately, in a world forever changed after the events of September 11. For some strange reason, I actually felt reassured when I see soldiers patrolling the streets.
DSC00844_blogBut, in this new world, there’s also a sense of frustration, of isolation, of apathy. I saw many beggars on the streets, mostly Roma men and women, both young and old, but also Italians as well. Lured by the promises of a better life in a big city perhaps, these people came here in search of jobs. But, with no authorised permits and high unemployment among the Italians, they took to the streets, prostrated with a cup in hand.DSC00691_blog
On one night when I had to make my way back to my hotel from the Spanish Steps (because the metro stopped operating after 10), I passed many homeless on the streets, swaddled in dirty blankets (their only piece of ‘furniture’). Perhaps out of fear, I avoided their eyes, and ignored their mumbled utterances in Italian.
DSC00514_blogAnd then, there are the African migrants. They mostly hang around the Colosseum and the road just outside the Roman Fora, dangling bracelets at passerbys or selfie-sticks. Some made an attempt at some small talk before delivering their sales pitch, although I’m not sure comparing the colour of their skins to mine counts as a genuine attempt at PR.
DSC00419_blogAt the hotel where I was staying, a new breed of economic migrants were present – that of the educated, Italian speaking Asians, working at the hotel reception. They hailed from countries like the Philippines, Indonesia and Vietnam. They greeted me with a forced smile, their manner of speech professional but ultimately hollow and cold. DSC00900_blog
So, beautiful as Rome may be, the familiar trappings of a big city are obvious everywhere you look. Immigration is a global issue, and one that my Italian room-mate at the hostel-hotel I’m staying was not keen to discuss, although he dryly admitted that many Italians do not have a job.DSC00808_blog
Fortunately, my pockets had not been picked, nor had my bag been snatched. But, suffice to say, I didn’t feel at ease in Rome. I felt like I was constantly on guard. I flinched when someone brushed against me. After which I would hastily swing my bag around and check for any open zippers. I clutched my camera close to my chest as I walked past the alley behind Roma Termini Station, littered with African peddlers selling fake leather goods and football jerseys.DSC00802_blog
Beautiful as Rome is, I was lost in all these lamentations. Then again, I suppose Rome is just like any other major city in Europe, not any different from Barcelona, Milan, London or Berlin. And I’m sure the same feelings / thoughts would surface again as I continue my exploration of other Italian cities. I just have to explore the city with my eyes (and mind) wide open.     LSDSC00324_blog

Full-length Feature: Tracing the Mediterranean (Part 3) – A Heart Full of Rome (Part 1 of 2)

Rome is drop-dead beautiful!!

I’m lost for descriptions every time I look at the Rome skyline at sunset. A plethora of emotions goes through your heart as you gaze and admire. Everywhere you look, all 360 degrees, there’s something that draws out from you a sigh of contentment, of admiration, of awe and wonder.

I’m not going to describe or go into detail about the sights I have seen in my one week stay in Rome. For these, you have a host of travel guides or blogs that will do these sights more justice than me.

Instead, I shall focus on my experiences and thoughts on what I’ve seen and felt in Rome.

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View from Victor Emmanuel II

I have to admit, I didn’t know where to start my exploration of Rome when I first arrived. I mean, I already had some kind of an itinerary in mind, but there seems to me, so much to see and do in the Eternal City.

For the first two days, I decided to follow closely a walking guide called Romewise.com by Elyssa Bernard, that was suggested to me by a young Polish girl, who bunked in the same room as me during my stay in Naples. She recommended the website because she and her sister had relied on it for their three-day tour of Rome and found it to be quite beneficial.

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Piazza Barberini
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Spanish Steps / Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti
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Piazza del Popolo
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Pincio
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View from the Pincio
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Victor Emmanuel II Monument
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So, to cut a long story short, I didn’t follow her guide to the T because I found it too intense for one day. You would have to start your day very early or you must have very muscular thighs to cover all that she suggested. Instead, I split her suggested ‘1st day walking tour’ into 2 days, and tweaked the route to form like two circular routes, as summarised below:

Day 1: Piazza Barberini >> Spanish Steps >> Piazza del Popolo >> Pincio >> Piazza Venezia >> Vittorio Emanuele II Monument (or Altare della Patria)

Day 2: Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs) >> Piazza della Repubblica >> Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore (Church of Santa Maria Maggiore >> Scuderie del Quirinale >> Trevi Fountain >> Pantheon >> Piazza Navona >> Campo dei Fiori >> Largo Argentina.

I’m so glad I rounded up my first day at the Vittorio Emmanuel II, Rome’s famed “birthday cake”, because from the marble terrace (which offers a more or less  360 degree panorama over the city centre) overlooking Piazza Venezia, I caught my first view of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum at sunset. You can even see as far as St Peter’s Basilica.

The domes / cupolas and cathedral steeples dotting the Rome skyline, bathed in golden light. It was such a mesmerising sight!!

Rome is compact in that sense, because all the ancient Roman ruins are more or less clustered together in one place – although the walking is anything but.

I hung around at the terrace till the last light went out, and after a thousand snaps of the Roma city skyline.

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Colosseum at night

Reluctantly, I left my vantage point and made a beeline for the Colosseum. Just seeing the Colosseum right there before your eyes makes my heart skip a beat – okay, several beats a few times.

As I approached the almost 2,000-year-old Roman relic, I caught sight of a cluster of modestly decked low-rise apartment blocks just across from the Colosseum. And I could not help but wonder what it’s like to stay just across from the Colosseum.

This must be one of the world’s most expensive real estates, I thought.

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Trajan’s Market / Mercati di Traiano

How does it feel to know that the ‘building’ just across from you was there long before you were born, and will still be there long after you die? Random, weird thoughts I know, but it’s a legit question.

I decided I would dedicate one full day to the Colosseum – a single entry ticket also gives you admission to the Roman Forum / Roman ruins and the Palatine Hill / Palatino, and is valid for two days. So, a tip here is not to rush the visit to the Colosseum, and then attempt to wrap up your ticket to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill – there’s no way you are going to appreciate either.

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For now, I’m just contented to sit at one of the stone benches near the aforementioned apartments and gazed at the Colosseum, now dappled in a soft glow in the moonlight.   LS

Note: This post features only photographs taken from the first day of my walking tour in Rome. More photographs of Rome will be featured in Part 2.

Full-length Feature: Tracing the Mediterranean (Part 2) – The Best Coffee is in Naples

For many of you, I’m sure, Italy is no stranger. The country, which boasts 54 World Heritage Sites, including countless priceless relics / ruins from the glorious Roman Empire (which at its peak, stretched from as far as the Middle East and North Africa to the south of England), is abundantly rich in ancient history, tradition, food and culture.

For me, after 40 years of my existence, this would only be my first trip to the famous Shoe/Boot of the Mediterranean. And one that took me more than a month to put the itinerary together…

Now, back to Naples.

Mention Naples, and the first thing that comes to mind for most would be Pompeii, the Roman city that was completely destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79.DSC09519_blogToday, the ruins of Pompeii are a must for any visit to the capital of Italy’s Campania region. As your train from Rome approaches Naples, the imposing sight of Mt Vesuvius greets your arrival.

It’s difficult to imagine Mt Vesuvius as the same beast that engulfed Pompeii in lava more than a thousand years ago. Rather, Vesuvius feels like the guardian mountain of Naples.DSC09362_blogThe Italian people of Naples, or Neapolitans (as they are more fondly known) take pride in their coffee and pizza. You wouldn’t find Starbucks or Pizza Hut here – they would simply fail to survive alongside the thousands of Neapolitan cafes and pizzerias that churn out one of the best (if not the best) coffee and pizza in the world.DSC09349_blogTo get the most of your Neapolitan experience, simply hop into one of the many cafes in Centro Storico, and order an espresso (0.90 to 1.00 euros) and a cornetto (croissant) and have them at the bar counter (there are seat charges for indoor and outdoor dining). So many locals prefer to stand at the bar anyway.

For pizza, I would suggest you have a look around the Spanish Quarter for the cheapest yet amazingly delicious pizza or pasta.

 
The Spanish Quarter is one of my favourite spots to just get lost and wander around. There are markets, trinket shops, roadside vendors selling anything from slippers to antique watches. It’s also where I tasted some of the freshest and most delicious seafood and pasta in Naples.DSC09819_blogDSC09420_blogNaples is a compact city, and many of Naples’ main sights are arranged around Centro Storico, and easily reached on foot. For those slightly further away, Naples’ small (only two lines) but efficient metro lines link most of the sights.
 

As for me, I prefer to wander around on foot, taking in as many of the sights as I can, and just soaking in the local vibes. DSC09407_blogDSC09667_blogDSC09664_blogNaples has some of the most beautiful sunsets in the world, and I would recommend you set aside one evening to have a leisurely stroll along the port area, which stretches from just before Castel dell’Ovo to the marina at Mergellina.

If you are planning day trips from Naples, as mentioned above, Pompeii is a must!!! And depending on the duration of your stay in Naples, you can choose to visit Herculaneum (somewhat like Pompeii, but smaller), scale Mt Vesuvius, or perhaps the most popular choice – a visit to the Amalfi Coast or the island of Capri.DSC09495_blogNote though that the latter two places are actually in opposite directions, so it’s not advisable to combine the two for one day-trip. For example, I didn’t have time for Capri because I spent an entire day at Pompeii (I had initially planned for only half a day at the Pompeii ruins).

To get to the Amalfi Coast, take the train to Sorrento (about 1.5 hours) and then transfer to a local bus (another 2 hours) for Positano or Amalfi. More ambitious travelers would combine Ravello to complete the Amalfi trinity. However, do note that the last bus to Sorrento train station departs at 7 p.m., so unless you are planning to stay the night, it’s wise to give yourself ample time or start your trip early.DSC09735_blogDSC09773_blogFor me, I didn’t even get as far as Ravello, and even Amalfi was a bit of a stretch for me. Besides, the shorter daylight hours during winter (I went in February) meant that I had less time to explore as everything gets dark after 5 p.m.

Ideally, I would have liked more time at Amalfi because Positano, the first town along the Amalfi bus route, was beautiful but sterile in my opinion. Its postcard perfect beach, with the colourful hillside houses, was touristy and expensive.

That said, catching the sunset at the Amalfi coast was probably one of the highlights of my day trip to the Amalfi strip. And the best way to enjoy it is with a cup of Neapolitan espresso.     LSDSC09675_blog

Full-length Feature: Tracing the Mediterranean (Part 1)

I promised to leave Japan when I wrote my last post for 2018. As some of you might know, I failed to do so. This time, it’s for real.

This is a trip that has been four years in the making. I first had the idea of tracing the cities along the Mediterranean coastline in 2016, because I’ve always been fascinated with the Mediterranean region.

Countries like Italy, the south of France, Spain and Portugal are so rich in history, cuisine and culture. I had always been interested in ancient civilizations, in particular the Greek and Roman Empires.

Of course, to visit every major city in the Mediterranean region in one trip is almost impossible. I originally planned to spend four and a half months covering the coastline from Central Italy to Portugal, but due to my sheer ignorance of the Schengen ruling, I was forced to cut Portugal (and a side trip to Morocco) altogether and scale down the plan to meet the 90-day allowance for non-European Union citizens.

Still, three months of traveling nonetheless looks a bit daunting, given the longest I’ve continuously been on the road (not including my two-year stay in Japan) was a 24-day solo trip to Central and Eastern Europe (Germany, Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary, and Austria) back in June, 2012.


Central & Eastern Europe Trip – June 2012

This time, I would spend almost three weeks to slightly over a month in each of the Mediterranean countries I planned to visit, starting with Italy, then to the south of France, and finally ending in Spain.

My first stop?

Naples, Italy.     LS

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